New Kids on the Rock – The Mariners – Review

The first rule of The PrawnHub:

• You don’t talk about The PrawnHub 

• You don’t review any restaurants that you can be affiliated with in any way in case of bias. 

Unfortunately I’m about to break my own rule after 2 years of recipe writing and reviewing. I hope you’ll forgive me and trust that I feel I only have to write this article because it is absolutely vital for your next weekend getaway.

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When I found out Paul Ainsworth was to take over The Mariners in Rock, Cornwall, I was over the moon. The Ainsworth food and work ethic is unparalleled in the industry in my opinion. So when my ex head chef and mentor from my cheffing days Joe Rozier (5 years at Paul Ainsworth No.6) told me that, along with Tom Dawes (6 years at Rojanos), Paul was leaving them at the Helm of his new baby I was buzzing for them. It was time for a road trip, just had to keep my fingers crossed the rain help off!

The Mariners 1st floor (Pre Service)

There’s something homely about The Mariners. It’s had an Extreme Makeover : Pub edition which has seen it’s interior filled with darkened wood and blues that are complimented perfectly by the huge glass windows that fill everything with natural light. It’s giving you the essence of the sea, without feeling like you’re having a fisherman’s net rammed down your throat.

We tried a LOT of Mariners food on our two day trip. It started on Saturday night with a selection of standouts to fill our rumbling bellies from the 5 hour drive. Safe to say unlike some gastro pubs you go to, we did NOT leave hungry.

The Dog’s Pollock :

This is a ronseal dish. It does exactly what it puns on the tin. It’s the Dog’s bollox. Paul created this dish for Tom Kerridge’s festival baby Pub in the Park in 2018 and now it’s played the small stages it’s rocking the Pyramid stage at The Mariners. In a gorgeous soft loaf style Bun that’s packed with dressed leaves and drizzled with triple mustard and the most perfectly crisp fish, it’s the Michelin standard Hot Dog we’ve all been waiting for.

Buttermilk Chicken with Chipotle Mayo :

How do I describe this dish? Imagine Colonel Saunders had decided to better the KFC recipe at the same time as popping a few tabs of Acid. KFC on acid, that’s it. I can’t explain it better, it’s caused me to have a AddCHICKtion. (Bad pun I know but you get my drift. P.S drugs are bad) I wonder how far deliveroo will travel … *chews pen*

Cornish Rarebit on toast & Hand made Pork Pie :

The simple food really stands out here, mainly because there is so much care and attention put into creating every element of each dish. Joe and Tom spent a few days with master pie maker Calum Franklin in the Pie Room, Holborn to create one of the tastiest Pork pie’s I’ve ever got my chops around. And along with the deep creamy flavour of the Rarebit and it’s golden, crispy grilled crust, they should both be top of your starters list.

The Roast :

There’s not much you can say about the in’s and out’s of a roast dinner. It’s either good or it isn’t. Whether you choose the MOUNTAIN of Chicken accompanied by the most incredible Chicken sauce that’s got a ramen style fat to liquid ratio, the sirloin of Beef with fat as soft as butter sitting on top of the shredded short rib – hell, maybe you fancy fish or cottage pie, you won’t be let down by any of the options. You’ll only wish you had a second stomach!

Also, if you’re struggling to decide, the Beef dripping roasties are absolutely next level. *Drools*

A trifling matter :

If you feel so stuffed you couldn’t possibly look at desserts, then head for “The Mariners Trifle”. It’s fruity and light creamy layers cut through all the heavier and saltier sauces from the main course. I’m never one for chocolate when I’m full to the brim – so this trifle ticked all the right boxes for me … and was pretty easy to demolish. (even with a food baby!)

Paul Ainsworth was recently quoted “Don’t use that dreaded word STAFF. Be a team, be a family, be their shoulder when they need you most and try to make them realise things about themselves they never thought possible.”

I think Paul has masterfully pushed this ethos yet again into The Mariners. By choosing two hungry young chefs that have been loyal to the Ainsworth family to battle on the frontline of the Pass, he is encouraging new ideas and new dishes that are both classic and innovative but in no means over complicated. In turn, by creating a space filled with passion and love, great food, music and better views than front row seats at a beach volleyball competition, we – as guests – become part of that family. Nothing ever seems too much trouble and we find ourselves in surroundings with a lunch “That we never thought possible”.

Three course Sunday Lunch for two including a bottle of Camel Valley Bacchus £90.

Our Saturday night dishes were gifted by the restaurant.

The Mariners is open daily:

Lunch – 12noon – 3pm

Dinner – 5pm – 9:30pm

For reservations of all Ainsworth establishments call : 01841 532 093

While you’re here : If you’re looking for another pub a bit closer to home check out The Coach in Marlow. I ate there on 22nd May.